An Antique Diamond set Foliate Brooch

French, c.1880


in the form of a fern leaf, its tapering and gently articulated stem set with rose diamonds, each petal mounted with an old brilliant cut diamond, set in silver and mounted on rose gold.

French eagle’s head mark
Maker’s poinçon indistinct

Length: 9.3 cm

The brooch is reminiscent of the work of master jeweller Octave Loeuillard, who created delicate diamond set jewels for Boucheron based on studies of plants. A design for a closely comparable jewel in the form of a fern survives in the Boucheron archive.