An Art Deco Gem-set Brooch by Udall and Ballou,

New York, c.1920


in the form of a blossoming fruit tree in platinum mounted with brilliant cut diamonds, the centre of the blossoms set with cabochon rubies, the tree standing in a diamond set pot with a row of baguette cut diamonds running through the centre.

New York, c.1920

Length: 3.5cm

The firm of Udall and Ballou was first established in 1888, although it is the jewels they created in the 1920s and 30s for which they are most famous. They had branches located on Fifth Avenue and 57th Street in New York, as well as Palm Beach, Newport and an office in Paris. Jewellers William Scheer and Oscar Heyman supplied the firm with many of their designs.

In 1939, they were one of five firms to exhibit at the New York World’s Fair, showcasing a dazzling array of diamond set jewels in the Art Deco style. Their fellow exhibitors were Tiffany & Co, Black Starr and Frost, Marcus & Co and the New York branch of Cartier.