A sumptuous traine de corsage by Alphonse Auger
entirely set with diamonds, the trailing stem bearing three fully open flower heads mounted en tremblant with leaves delicately serrated, further flowers depicted as they begin to bloom, while buds are suggested towards the end of the stem. The jewel is fully articulated and the sections detachable to form separate brooches, with individual fittings.
Contained in its original leather case, the lid satin bearing the firm’s address atPlace des Victoires.
Paris, c.1890.
Alphonse Auger (1837-1904) made a speciality of such traines de corsage, the flowers mounted in gold and the diamonds set in silver. He had been trained, like Frédéric Boucheron, in the Marret Frères’ workshop, where he learnt the skill of gem-setting.
He established his own business in 1862, opening premises at 54 rue Etienne Marcel. Within two years he had formed a partnership with Gabriel Falguières, which lasted until 1870. For the following eight years, Auger worked alone but his business as a supplier of jewellery considerably expanded , counting a number of distinguished retailers as his own clients.
Convertible diamond set tiaras were amongst his repertoire, as were insect brooches decorated with plique-à-jour enamel . After forming another partnership of 11 years with M. Guéret, Auger was joined by his eldest son Georges in 1895. By 1900 his son was running the business alone, continuing to produce meticulous works in the Art Nouveau taste, turning to Art Deco during his final years.
This delicate work of art demonstrates why jewels by Auger were in such demand by his contemporaries, his observation of nature allowed botanical forms to be translated into diamond set confections, in which flower heads naturalistically trembled in wear as if swaying in the breeze.
