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A platinum mounted diamond and emerald honeysuckle brooch
London, circa 1900

each flower finely represented with its long thin corolla tube expanding into two ‘lips’ or curves, the upper four-lobed and the lower one complete, the stamens meticulously represented, the platinum filaments tipped with diamond-set anthers. Each element, including the buds in the base, is pavé-set with diamonds, the stem set with calibré-cut emeralds.

Illustrated

See no.264 (pg 234) of From Function to Fantasy, The Brooch: From 1200 BCE to the contemporary


The brooch is contained in its original leather, silk and velvet-lined case, shaped to accommodate the form of the jewel. It bears on the reverse an impressed initial ‘K’ for C J Kitz, the case manufacturer first identified by Charlotte Gere. In her pioneering research into the case-making firms of the period, she discovered that Kitz, founded circa 1851-2, had supplied several businesses including Giuliano. Given the quality and unusual subject of this jewel, she has suggested that the firm most likely to have created it amongst the businesses known to have employed Kitz, is that of Carrington & Co.

Named after its founder John Bodman Carrington, and restyled Carrington & Co. circa 1880, the business located at 130 Regent Street advertised itself as a specialist in jewellery, precious stones and silversmithing in 1893. The firm earnt a distinguished reputation for its fine stock, and was granted Royal Warrants by Queen Victoria, Prince Albert, King Edward VII and King George V. Amongst Carrington & Co’s notable creations were the diamond-set bow brooch given by the Country of Dorset as a wedding gift to the future Queen Mary in 1893, as well as the famous Cullinan diamonds (numbers III and IV) in 1911.

Given the complexity of their structure, studies of honeysuckle are rarely attempted in jewellery and this is the most faithful representation of this delicate flower seen to date.

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