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the pupil set with a cabochon amethyst surrounded by diamonds, the lids composed of cabochon turquoises, the whole surmounted with a stylised eyebrow consisting of a continuous row of gold elliptical mounts decorated with cabochons of lapis lazuli.
Illustrated
See no.261 (pg 232) of ‘From Function to Fantasy, The Brooch: From 1200 BCE to the Contemporary.’
This is a very different manifestation of the ‘evil eye’, the incorporation of amethyst and turquoise reflecting the palette of the glamorous jewellery made by Cartier during this period. It was initiated by the Duchess of Windsor’s commission of the ‘Draperie’ necklace from the firm in 1947 which was set with this colourful combination of stones.
