A carved moonstone and diamond brooch

Illustrated

See no.247 (pg 227) of ‘From Function to Fantasy, The Brooch: From 1200 BCE to the contemporary.’

It is featured in an engraved advertisement for the jeweller’s range of ‘Lucky Moonstone Jewelry’ where it is described as ‘Lucky Moonstone, Brilliant Crescent’ and priced at £18. Further examples include amatory motifs, such as twin moonstone heart pins and moonstone cherubs with either gold or diamond-set wings.

After an eight-year partnership with his brother which was dissolved in 1855, James William Benson (1826-1878) launched his new firm in Ludgate Hill. Under the name ‘J.W. Benson’ he continued to serve as official watchmaker to the Admiralty and War Department as he had with his brother previously. He opened retail premises at 25 Old Bond Street in 1872, adding jewellery to his repertoire two years later. When he died in 1878, the firm continued to operate under his two sons Alfred and Arthur. They were granted a Royal warrant as Watchmaker to Queen Victoria in 1879, and to the Prince of Wales, future King Edward VII. In 1889 they took over the firm of Royal jewellers Hunt and Roskell and from the on traded under that name. They ceased manufacturing when their factory was bombed during World War II, but continued as retailers for some decades; they were eventually taken over by Royal jeweller Garrards in 1973.

The fleeting vision of a ‘Man in the Moon’ occurs when the dark and light areas on the Moon’s surface are imagined as a human face. This poetic perception was translated into jewellery especially during the late 19th and early 20th centuries, prompted by a surge of interest in lunar activity. The male profile was often, appropriately, interpreted in moonstone, either shown full face or in profile. In this example the features have been so stylised that the huge chin and forehead suggest those of a smiling Punch, bearing a floppy cap on his head.